FAQs

How will the stone be packaged?

Whenever possible, we ship our material on pallets. On rare occasions, material size or configuration will require special loading on A-Frames or directly onto the floor of the trailer.

How will material be shipped?

Small projects generally ship via box van. Large projects will ship via 50' flatbed semi-trailer truck.

What will be required for unloading?

Since the majority of our material ships on pallets, a forklift is the best way of unloading the trucks. On occasion, projects require stones manufactured in a manner that does not make it possible to ship via pallets. In these cases, a crane is normally used for unloading.

If your project requires that material be shipped in a manner that does not allow a forklift to be used for unloading, we will notify you before shipment is made.

How much will the pallets weigh?

An average pallet weight is 5,000 lbs., but they can on occasion weigh nearly 10,000 lbs. Once your project is packaged we can supply actual pallet weights in advance of delivery.

I have a special circumstance that requires field cutting. How
can I cut the stone?

Dry diamond blades or carborundum blades work equally well. These can be mounted on any standard circular saw or, for deeper cuts, large blades can be mounted on specialty saws.

How can I match the smooth factory finish in field?

In a matter of minutes, someone experienced with grinders can simulate the factory finish using a 60-grit silicone carbide grinding pad on any 6,000 rpm or less pneumatic or electric grinder.

A few things that will help the novice follow:

  1. New, unused pads should be run over a piece of metal for 30 seconds or so, in order to slightly flatten the carbide abrasive on the pad. This will greatly reduce aggressive "swirl" marks left in the finished stone.
  2. When possible, always let the stone dry so the grinding pad doesn't get caked with dust.
  3. Small, delicate areas can be finished by hand rubbing with 60-grit silicone carbide sandpaper.

How can I clean the stone?

Please see page 38 of the Indiana Limestone Handbook. Also, see the publication "How to Avoid Small Area Stains and Blemishes," both available as free downloads from this site.

What kind of mortar do I need?

Please see page 22 of the Indiana Limestone Handbook for ASTM specifications for cement and lime mixes.

When do I need long term storage?

If the material is to be stored for more than 6 months, arrangements should be made to store the material under roof, in dry storage.

What is the best sealer to use?

Because the technology is rapidly changing, we recommend that you contact the manufacturers directly.

How can I fix a damaged/chipped stone?

Whenever possible, it is always best to reshape the stone with grinders or a chisel to eliminate the need for any patching. If sanding or grinding cannot work out the damaged area, and patching is required, then the following various methods and materials are used for repairs.

Small chips on interior stone:

Mix finely crushed limestone with duco cement into a thick paste. Overfill the chipped area with the paste, and let cure approximately 24 hrs. After curing, sand the area with 60-grit silicon carbide sand paper to match the surrounding area. Repeat the process as needed to achieve satisfactory results.

Small chips on exterior stone:

Cement powder patches such as "Dugan's Stone Patcher" or "A-1 Invisible Stone Patcher" are very simple and fast drying. Generally, the patched area can be finished out approximately 30 minutes after the patch is applied simply by scraping with a sharp chisel blade. Mortar coloring can be added to the patching material to achieve a custom color match.

Urethane based "Bonstone Last Patchâ„¢" gives a significantly better finished look than the powder patches, but requires about 24 hours of cure time before being finished out. Of all the commercially available patches we've used, this gives the best overall color and texture match. During application, care needs to be taken to limit the patch material's contact with the surrounding undamaged natural stone, in order to minimize the potential for a darkened halo around the patched area.

Larger interior and exterior repairs:

Sawing, grinding or chiseling out the damaged stone so a "Dutchman" repair can be made is normally the preferred way to fix large areas. The Indiana Limestone Institute publication "Repairing Damage to Indiana Limestone" details the procedure for such repairs.

  1. Dugan's Stone Patcher: 630-910-0885
  2. A-1 Invisible Stone Patcher; Galloy & Van Etten, Inc.: 773-928-4800
  3. Last Patchâ„¢ Limestone; Bonstone Materials Corporation: 800-425-2214